“I make clothing like armor. I wanted to protect the clothes themselves from fashion, and at the same time protect the woman’s body from something – maybe from men’s eyes or a cold wind.” Yohji Yamamoto
Perhaps because of the bone chilling cold weather or maybe just because I feel vulnerable today, I wanted to write about the idea of clothing as protection. I recently viewed the documentary, “Notebook on Cities and Clothes”, a kind of philosophical meditation between the filmmaker Wim Wenders and Yohji Yamamoto. The filmmaker enters the experience by reflecting on a shirt and jacket he had recently acquired bearing the designer’s label. Despite his oft-articulated distain for fashion, this clothing made him feel protected “like a knight in his armor”. Wender poses the question, “What did Yamamoto know about me…about everybody?”
Upon reflection I have to say that on the days that I feel in need of protection I seem to reach for those pieces in my wardrobe designed by Yohji Yamamoto. Layered, comfortable, often oversized and enveloping I always feel warm and safe. In response to Wender’s question, I think what Yamamoto knows about everyone is that as humans we are never perfect, are in fact quite flawed and when we are aware of this we feel vulnerable. His clothes make the ideal of perfection seem mundane and disorder, failure, and unfinished business become beautiful. Clothing that is irregular in shape with torn, ripped or ragged fabrics and hems makes us feel as though we can be messy, defiant, unfinished and perhaps even a little “rough around the edges” yet still be beautiful, seductive and feminine in the spaces between our clothes and our body.
The photos this week are taken at the place generally considered to be the prototype model of an urban armory: The Seventh Regiment Armory. Like Yamamoto’s clothing, this building was built for protection but also to promote art and beauty. An immense bronze gate protects the entrance. Beyond the gate is the door which is solid oak, about half a foot in thickness, with raised square panels and the rails and stiles studded with bronze rivets. Built in 1880 as both a military facility and a social club, the reception rooms on the first floor and the Company Rooms on the second floor were designed by the most prominent designers and artists of the era including Louis Comfort Tiffany, Stanford White, Herter Brothers and Pottier & Stymus. Currently the space has been transformed into a cultural center that showcases avant-garde works spanning all art forms that cannot be shown in conventional museums and galleries. I am looking forward to a specially commissioned piece by Laurie Anderson in October 2015.
Visit Accidental Icon again this week on Wednesday for clothing details and Friday for more about the other designer I am wearing: Andre Walker.
So true! Sometimes I make sure I have long sleeves because that makes me feel protected….And comfort clothing makes me feel safe too, jeans and an oversized sweater.
Such a powerful message, much social action can be achieved just through the choices we make when we chose and wear clothes.
As I have gotten older long sleeves is becoming more important to me. I compensated by wearing elbow length gloves. I am writing this in sweatpants and a sweatshirt that says "Almost Famous". Comfort clothes are the best!
my 8 year old Jil Sander black leather motorcycle jacket
Ohhh that is a treasure, I am jealous!
As I have gotten older long sleeves is becoming more important to me. I compensated by wearing elbow length gloves. I am writing this in sweatpants and a sweatshirt that says "Almost Famous". Comfort clothes are the best!
my 8 year old Jil Sander black leather motorcycle jacket
Ohhh that is a treasure, I am jealous!
Love, love, love this!!!!!
I bet there is a lingering scent of him on it too.
Love you back sis!
I love this, and love the concept of clothing as protection, armor, self-definition. I love looking at and wearing clothing that is not traditionally flattering at times; for me this is a way of saying "who I am is not just my body." It’s a way of being who we want to be.
Nothing better than worn and loved denim.
Such a powerful message, much social action can be achieved just through the choices we make when we chose and wear clothes.
My Phat Farm puffer jacket makes me feel protected
and is wonderfully warm in the wintry cold.It happens to be
man’s jacket and is a treasure to me.
Feeling protected and warm and translating masculine look into one that works for you are what Yamamoto does best. Love clothes that are treasures and that we know they are instead of being throwaways.
I came across the film when I was researching the idea of clothing as protection. It is so interesting to hear from my readers the choices they make when feeling this way. Thanks for responding.
My Phat Farm puffer jacket makes me feel protected
and is wonderfully warm in the wintry cold.It happens to be
man’s jacket and is a treasure to me.
Feeling protected and warm and translating masculine look into one that works for you are what Yamamoto does best. Love clothes that are treasures and that we know they are instead of being throwaways.
My grandfather’s Harris Tweed jacket.
I bet there is a lingering scent of him on it too.
Love you back sis!
My old faithful denim jacket…..bulletproof and beautiful in it.
Nothing better than worn and loved denim.
Love Japanese clothing, own zero (saving for.). For me, it has always been boots for protection, in order: Cowboy, Cycle, Dockers.
I buy almost all of my Japanese designer items at sales and in consignment stores. They have some good ones on line and for me made clothes I though unattainable within reason. Cowboy boots, wore them for years and they do seem to give you an automatic swagger.
Love Japanese clothing, own zero (saving for.). For me, it has always been boots for protection, in order: Cowboy, Cycle, Dockers.
I buy almost all of my Japanese designer items at sales and in consignment stores. They have some good ones on line and for me made clothes I though unattainable within reason. Cowboy boots, wore them for years and they do seem to give you an automatic swagger.
Layered, comfortable and oversized is pretty much what I reach for most days. Certainly when I feel I need added security (or protection) from my clothing these trusty and faithful pieces not only provide the comfort and confidence I seek, but also a kind of veil that renders what ever antagonist I face invisible. The unspoken message being "this is my world and you can’t come in" 🙂
I love this post, you are so eloquent and I love the imagery of the veil. It conveys a kind of assertiveness as well as vulnerability. Thanks for taking the time to be so thoughtful and share it.
Layered, comfortable and oversized is pretty much what I reach for most days. Certainly when I feel I need added security (or protection) from my clothing these trusty and faithful pieces not only provide the comfort and confidence I seek, but also a kind of veil that renders what ever antagonist I face invisible. The unspoken message being "this is my world and you can’t come in" 🙂
I love this post, you are so eloquent and I love the imagery of the veil. It conveys a kind of assertiveness as well as vulnerability. Thanks for taking the time to be so thoughtful and share it.
I’m in bed with a cold at the moment so I’m wearing garish pyjamas and one of my dad’s old cashmere jumpers for that comforting, ‘home’ feel. But when I do have to venture outside and am still in need of some ‘armour’, I tend to wear something bright – clothe myself in some joy.
http://thatkindredblog.blogspot.co.uk/
That outfit sounds extremely protective! I have one of my dad’s old sweaters I put on when I miss him since he passed away and it is almost like I can feel his arms around me giving me a hug. Feel better!
I’m in bed with a cold at the moment so I’m wearing garish pyjamas and one of my dad’s old cashmere jumpers for that comforting, ‘home’ feel. But when I do have to venture outside and am still in need of some ‘armour’, I tend to wear something bright – clothe myself in some joy.
http://thatkindredblog.blogspot.co.uk/
That outfit sounds extremely protective! I have one of my dad’s old sweaters I put on when I miss him since he passed away and it is almost like I can feel his arms around me giving me a hug. Feel better!
Beautifully written! I consider my ensemble my amor as I approach my day. Hats are a perfect addition for this purpose. I can hide beneath a brim. Peer forth from a full face veil. I feel naked and exposed without my chapeau.
I love exploring the issues of vulnerability and imperfection. Thank you!
Beautifully written! I consider my ensemble my amor as I approach my day. Hats are a perfect addition for this purpose. I can hide beneath a brim. Peer forth from a full face veil. I feel naked and exposed without my chapeau.
I love exploring the issues of vulnerability and imperfection. Thank you!
I have a thing for artist-type smocks. Roomy, pockets, big sleeves. Safe and sound in my big smocky tent.
I have a thing for artist-type smocks. Roomy, pockets, big sleeves. Safe and sound in my big smocky tent.
I bought this Yohji Yamamoto DVD at the exhibition at the V&A a couple of years ago and still haven’t watched it. You’ve inspired me to dig it out. And I wear a mannish jacket when I’m in need of protection.
I came across the film when I was researching the idea of clothing as protection. It is so interesting to hear from my readers the choices they make when feeling this way. Thanks for responding.
Oh that films sounds interesting, I am going to look for it on Netflix. Love what wearing especially the top/dress. And the shoot itself is awesome, interesting choice. Yes Garance is a true inspiration, I just love her blog.
Allie of ALLIENYC
allienyc.com
Thanks Allie. Part of the fun for me of doing the blog is making the choices about theme, outfit and place. I wanted to try to add something to showing an outfit.
Oh that films sounds interesting, I am going to look for it on Netflix. Love what wearing especially the top/dress. And the shoot itself is awesome, interesting choice. Yes Garance is a true inspiration, I just love her blog.
Allie of ALLIENYC
allienyc.com
Thanks Allie. Part of the fun for me of doing the blog is making the choices about theme, outfit and place. I wanted to try to add something to showing an outfit.
Hmm, an interesting question, indeed. When I want to feel protected from others, I usually wear a look of disinterest.
Clever girl!
Clever girl!
Oh my dear … I have no words to match the brilliance of your writings here.
I am always ever so happy to read your intellectual prose … on a subject so near and dear to my heart. I have known for so many years now … that when feeling vulnerable … my armor of choice is always a blazer … even though I know it is a rather staid fashion choice. It must be me coming firmly into my adulthood in the 80’s … but nothing makes me feel empowered and safe … like a blazer.
I have worn a blazer to doctor appointments when I had cancer … to every doctor check up with each of my children … and still today … anytime I feel I need a little more protection … form my over sensitivity to the world.
I can not tell you enough … just how much I appreciate the thought and soul you bring … to what we choose to wear!
All the Very Best to You My Dear!
Tamera Beardsley
Such a thought provoking comment back. I think this could be a great post exploring the idea that clothing can sometimes do the "talking" for you. Fierce boots anchor you solidly to the ground and let you "stand your ground". Thanks for such a thoughtful comment.
Thank you so much for your beautiful words and sharing your story. From your end my dear I so appreciate the magic and whimsy you bring to your posts. I always feel like I am in a fairy tale full of light and of course your gorgeous crowns make us all Queens. The blog becomes about artistic expression rather than just an outfit of the day.
Oh my dear … I have no words to match the brilliance of your writings here.
I am always ever so happy to read your intellectual prose … on a subject so near and dear to my heart. I have known for so many years now … that when feeling vulnerable … my armor of choice is always a blazer … even though I know it is a rather staid fashion choice. It must be me coming firmly into my adulthood in the 80’s … but nothing makes me feel empowered and safe … like a blazer.
I have worn a blazer to doctor appointments when I had cancer … to every doctor check up with each of my children … and still today … anytime I feel I need a little more protection … form my over sensitivity to the world.
I can not tell you enough … just how much I appreciate the thought and soul you bring … to what we choose to wear!
All the Very Best to You My Dear!
Tamera Beardsley
Thank you so much for your beautiful words and sharing your story. From your end my dear I so appreciate the magic and whimsy you bring to your posts. I always feel like I am in a fairy tale full of light and of course your gorgeous crowns make us all Queens. The blog becomes about artistic expression rather than just an outfit of the day.
I do enjoy your particular style of thought-provoking very much. For me, I am not a highly talkative person, I am not great at small talk; I think maybe my clothing choices give me a different voice. Sometimes people I have never spoken to before will say that they always notice my outfits. As for serious protection, it has always been about the fierce black boots for me.
Such a thought provoking comment back. I think this could be a great post exploring the idea that clothing can sometimes do the "talking" for you. Fierce boots anchor you solidly to the ground and let you "stand your ground". Thanks for such a thoughtful comment.
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